10 uses for car wax
Whether in paste or liquid form, car wax is formulated to fill scratches and give a high shine to nonporous surfaces like glass and metal, while protecting them from smudges and stains. It's handy in other ways, too, so grab a lint-free cloth and get to work.
1. Keep appliances fingerprint-free
Apply a thin coat of car wax to stainless-steel fridges and stoves. Buff clean to resist fingerprints and smudges.
2. Give faucets a shine
Rub car wax onto kitchen and bathroom metal fixtures to keep them shiny and spot-free.
3. Unstick hinges
Use car wax to lubricate the hinges of garden shears and scissors.
4. Fix a skipping CD
Apply a small dab of car wax to a scratched CD and buff it clean using short strokes along the length of the scratch, not across it. Rinse the CD with water, and let it air-dry before playing.
5. Combat corrosion
Apply a thin coat of car wax to brass door knockers, mailboxes, and other outdoor fixtures to keep them from tarnishing.
6. Fight mildew
After using your regular cleanser, apply a layer of car wax to the inside and outside of a shower door and buff off with a dry cloth to stave off mildew growth.
7. Make drawers and windows easier to open
Rub a small dab of car wax onto the tracks of drawers and windows so they'll slide more smoothly.
8. Prevent bumper-sticker residue
Before placing a sticker on your car's bumper, rub a tiny bit of car wax onto the area the sticker will cover. Later, it will peel off easily—no gummy mess to scrape off.
9. Keep snow from sticking
Shoveling is hard enough when snow is heavy and damp. Apply two thick coats of car wax to the head of a shovel (or to the inside of your snowblower's chute) to prevent the white stuff from sticking.
10. Make a mirror fog-free
Rub a thin layer of car wax onto a bathroom mirror and buff it clean. Next time you step out of the shower, you'll be able to see your reflection without having to wipe away condensation first.
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Clean your Windows like a Pro!
Ideally, windows should be washed twice a year, but it's a task most people don't look forward to. Part of what makes window washing such a chore is that homeowners insist on doing it with wadded-up paper towels or newspaper, spray cleaner, and a ton of elbow grease.
"All that rubbing isn't a good idea," says Brent Weingard, owner of Expert Window Cleaners in New York City. "You're just moving dirt around from one spot to another and putting a static charge on the glass, which attracts dust and dirt. As soon as you finish, the window looks dirty again."
As Weingard demonstrates on the next few pages, it's easier and more effective to clean glass like the pros do: with a squeegee and a few other readily available tools. The techniques aren't complicated, he says, and the results may surprise you.
Wash
Picture windows call for large tools. The long cloth head of a strip applicator soaks up a lot of soapy water and knocks dirt loose without scratching the glass. For a cleaning solution, Weingard uses just a squirt of dishwashing liquid in a bucket of warm water — the less suds, the better.
Wipe
Starting at the top left, pull the squeegee over the soapy pane in a reverse-S pattern (left- handers would start at the top right). At the end of each stroke, wipe the squeegee's blade clean with a lint-free rag. Cloth diapers or old linen napkins are perfect for this task.
Detail
Remove any water remaining on the edges of the glass with a damp, wrung-dry chamois, which soaks up wetness without leaving streaks. Dry the windowsill with a rag.
Cleaning a Multipane Window
Customize the Squeegee
To clean a divided-light window, you need a squeegee that fits the panes. Weingard uses a hacksaw to cut one to size. He trims the metal channel ¼ inch narrower than the window pane, then files the cut edges smooth. With a utility knife, he cuts the rubber blade to the pane's full width and fits it into the channel so that it projects 1/8 inch at each end.
Scrub the panes
A handheld sponge or hog-bristle brush works best on multipane windows. Weingard prefers natural sponges. "They're firmer and more absorbent than synthetics," he says. Using the same solution of a squirt of liquid soap in water, he rubs each pane from left to right, top to bottom, working the sponge edges or brush bristles into the corners to loosen dirt.
Wipe
Pull the squeegee down each pane in a single stroke from top to bottom. After each stroke, clean the blade with a rag so it doesn't leave streaks. (If the squeegee squeaks a lot, add a bit more soap to the water.) As above, remove any streaks on the glass with a chamois, and dry the muntins and sill with a rag.
Out, Out, Darned Spots
Over time, hard-water runoff from masonry or rain falling through metal window screens leaves stubborn mineral stains on glass that normal washing can't erase. So after a regular cleaning, Weingard wets the glass and gently "supercleans" it either with fine 000 steel wool (if the panes are small) or with the cleansing powders Zud or Barkeeper's Friend, which contain oxalic acid. (Other brands of powder may scratch the glass or fail to remove stains.) He mixes the powder into a paste on a wet towel, rubs away the stains, then rinses and squeegees the glass twice to remove the residue. Even with that treatment, the staining generally comes back in about six months.
To get rid of stains for good, Weingard recommends the application of 3 Star Barrier Glass Surface Protectant, a clear polymer coating. "After the stains are gone, you just put the coating on with a strip applicator and squeegee it off," he says. Protection against staining is permanent, as long as the polymer is reapplied after each regular cleaning.
Windows That Wash Themselves
Given people's aversion to washing windows, it's no wonder that at least two companies, Pilkington and PPG Industries, now make glass that cleans itself. The secret ingredient is titanium dioxide, a metallic compound that's permanently embedded in the surface of the molten glass during manufacture but doesn't affect its transparency. When exposed to the sun's ultraviolet rays, the titanium dioxide kicks off a chemical reaction that disintegrates organic dirt, such as tree sap, pollen, and dead bugs. The coating also makes the glass hydrophilic; that is, water doesn't bead up but spreads out in sheets that slice off loosened debris like an invisible squeegee. "It doesn't leave glass sparkling like it came out of the dishwasher," says Chris Barry, director of technical services for Pilkington, "but it's still quite clean." Windows with self-cleaning glass cost about 20 percent more than ordinary windows but need cleaning only about half as often.
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Removing Wall Grease
Most washable wallcoverings can be scrubbed clean with a sponge and nonabrasive cleanser. Try that with a nonwashable wallcovering, and you'll ruin the surface. A little-known secret: Most greasy, grimy stains and spots can be drawn out of nonwashable wallcoverings with a standard electric clothes iron.
Place both layers of a regular brown grocery bag right over the stain. Press the paper with a warm iron — no steam — for a minute or two. The paper will absorb the heated grease. If necessary, repeat the process with clean paper until the stain lifts out.
Breathing Easier
Remember the first time you looked at a drop of drinking water under a microscope in Bio class and saw the millions of tiny organisms it contained? Well, the air in your home is also filled with life. Most of it is harmless. But for people who suffer from asthma and allergies, all of those little bits of dust, dander, pollen, mold and, yes, microscopic life—collectively called allergens—can be a problem. What's more, these allergens have a penchant for gathering in your home.
Some homeowners undertake extreme measures to deal with air-quality issues in their homes. Many of these efforts are unnecessary and ineffective, says Dr. David Cugell, Bazley Professor of Pulmonary Diseases at Northwestern University Medical School and consultant to the American Lung Association. But there are a number of ways you can reduce the quantity of allergens in your home. The ones we'll show you are easy to do and don't cost much.
Keeping It Clean
Decreasing the amount of dust in your home is the single most important thing you can do to control allergens. Because dust is sticky, it attracts and holds dust mites, pet hair and dander, mold and mildew. It also settles on floors and furniture, so you should concentrate on cleaning exposed horizontal surfaces.
Effective vacuuming. While they are good at picking up dirt and dust, many vacuums don't hold onto the finer particles—they just redistribute them. Try this simple test: Vacuum an area in direct sunlight and then step back and look at the machine. The sunlight will let you see how much dust is coming from the vacuum. If there's a lot, consider a new model with special bags or filters that trap microscopic particles from major manufacturers like Hoover, Eureka and Oreck. Prices of these "low-emitting" vacuums are dropping; some are available in the $200 range. The most effective vacuums use HEPA (high-efficiency particulate-arresting) filters, although even these can't trap all allergens.
Because you spend much of your time in the bedroom, pay special attention to cleaning these areas of the house. Don't forget to vacuum the registers of a forced-air heating and cooling system as well as inside closets. Try to vacuum and dust when family members who are sensitive to dust are not at home.
Carpet concerns. Wall-to-wall carpeting and rugs are a haven for dust and animal allergens. Frequent vacuuming will decrease their carrying ability; some rugs can be washed. If it comes down to a choice between carpeting and wood flooring, remember that bare wood floors accumulate only 10 percent the amount of allergens as carpeting. A compromise: Bare flooring with washable area rugs.
This doesn't mean you should automatically rip up existing carpet; experts are divided about the benefits of removing carpeting for those who are not afflicted with serious asthma or allergies. Carpeting installed without a moisture barrier directly over concrete, however, is a different case. The carpet pulls moisture from the slab, creating a petri dish for mold, mildew and bacteria.
Discouraging mites. While vacuuming and dusting at least once a week help with dust allergens, they don't kill dust mites. To keep them under control, place mattresses, box springs and pillows in plastic cases and cover the zipper with tape. Wash bed linens and stuffed toys weekly in 130°F water; wash all bedding and fabric window treatments once a month. Use a meat thermometer to determine the temperature of your wash water. If it isn't hot enough, set the water heater higher. All items should be dried in a dryer or in direct sun.
Decreasing fumes. If someone in your household is sensitive to fumes and odors produced by household cleaners, paints, pesticides or gardening supplies, store these products in sealed containers in well-ventilated nonliving areas, like a garage. Also be sure they aren't stored near return-air ducts so fumes aren't pulled into other areas. Try to buy small amounts of these products so there's less remaining around the house. Better yet, eliminate what you can and switch to unscented, nontoxic or natural alternatives for products (including cosmetics) you must use. For example, use cedar chips instead of mothballs with paradichlorobenzene.
The particulates contained in smoke are serious irritants to everyone. Consider making smokers take their habit outside, and for the sake of sensitive individuals, avoid wood fires in the fireplace and aromatherapy candles.
The simple act of removing your shoes before entering your home will also decrease the amount of pesticide, garden fertilizer, mold and pollen you track into the house.
Ventilating the Area
Your mom was right. Fresh air is good for you. Ventilation removes indoor air and adds outside air to dilute the overall level of allergens. Exhaust fans in the kitchen and bathrooms will help remove odors and moisture, but they must be vented to the outdoors to work properly. A clothes dryer, attic and crawl space should also be vented outdoors.
HVAC help. Very tightly constructed homes—those with wall and ceiling insulation, continuous vapor barriers and weather-stripped insulated windows and doors—might need a whole-house ventilator. These can often be added to a forced-air heating system; leave this job to a heating and cooling contractor.
Before you start using any heating or cooling appliances, have them inspected and cleaned by a professional. The service call should include cleaning coils, drain pans, fans and heat exchangers; adjusting heating products to meet operating specifications; inspecting any venting system and combustion air supply; and checking that fresh-air intakes are separated from appliance vents to prevent recirculation of combustion gases.
If, as part of your forced-air system, return vents are located in hallways, be sure to keep doors open to rooms without return vents. Otherwise air pressure and humidity differences between rooms could increase the concentration of allergens.
Lowering humidity. Dust allergens and mold and mildew thrive on humidity. While relative-humidity levels between 30 and 50 percent are generally recommended for most households, a level of 35 to 45 percent may be more comfortable for allergy or asthma sufferers. Michael Lamb, energy specialist with the U.S. Department of Energy Conservation and Renewable Energy Inquiry and Referral Service, says homeowners can pick up a relative-humidity gauge that's accurate within a few percent at electronic and hardware stores for $10 to $20.
You can control room humidity with a humidifier or dehumidifier. However, says Dr. Cugell, "Room humidifiers are easily contaminated by mold and bacterial growth and are a known source of considerable respiratory problems." So check it frequently for mold and mildew, add fresh water every day to a room humidifier and clean it every three days. You should also check a dehumidifier on a regular basis.
Myth 1: You have to get rid of pets.
All pets produce allergens, like hair and dander (dead skin cells and dried saliva). Even aquariums can produce mold if not properly cleaned. But unless someone in your household is severely allergic, you don't necessarily have to get rid of your cat or dog. Bathing a dog once a week or wiping down a cat with a wet cloth can reduce dander to bearable levels for many. At the very least, keep pets out of bedrooms and off furniture.
Myth 2: Portable ion generators, also called energized-oxygen or pure-air filters, are a good way to control indoor pollution and improve air quality.
These devices work by producing ozone from oxygen. Manufacturers often claim or imply that pollutants cling to part of the ozone molecule and that purifies the air. However, according to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), there is no evidence that ozone removes indoor pollutants. In fact, ozone can damage lungs when inhaled in large amounts. Even relatively small amounts can cause chest pain, coughing, shortness of breath and throat irritation. Ozone can also worsen asthma.
Myth 3: Cleaning air ducts will improve air quality inside a home.
According to the EPA, there is no proof that duct cleaning reduces allergens and dust inside homes. Improper cleaning can actually increase levels. Nor is there any evidence that a small amount of dust in air ducts is a health risk. However, insulated ducts that get wet should be replaced. Only ducts that are visibly clogged with an excessive amount of debris or dust or infested with rodents or insects, or those with substantial visible mold and mildew, should be cleaned.
Filtering the Indoor Air
If the forced-air system in your home is equipped with inexpensive fiberglass filters, you should upgrade them to high-efficiency media filters. Standard room air conditioners usually do a pretty good job of filtering pollen, ragweed and spores if you keep the coils on the unit clean and replace the filters as frequently as indicated by the manufacturer.
Adding an air cleaner. If cleaning, ventilation and routine filter maintenance on existing systems don't provide relief, consider an air cleaner. There are three types: media, electrostatic and hybrids. Media filters use physical barriers (media) and coatings to trap particles. The finer the media and the greater the surface area, the better it is at trapping small particles. Electrostatic filters use charged plates that create an electrical field to trap particles. Hybrid filters use a combination of these technologies. Ion generators are in a category of their own and should be avoided.
Filter facts. Although a new federal system for testing the efficiency of air filters will be finalized sometime this autumn, many manufacturers are already using it. These Minimum Efficiency Reporting Values (MERV) test how well filters remove small particles from the air; the higher the MERV number, the more efficient the filter. "This rating is really useful for comparing medium- and high-efficiency filters," says H.E. Barney Burr-oughs, chairman of the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers committee on the new standard. "The rating tells people what the difference is between filters, and takes away a lot of the smoke and mirrors of the manufacturer's claims."
Most of these more efficient filters can be used on any forced-air system, but may require some retrofitting. Have your heating and cooling contractor make sure the new filter won't reduce airflow to a dangerous level. You won't be as comfortable, and you could overtax the system. This potential airflow reduction, called pressure drop, should be considered when the filter is new (initial pressure drop) and when it's full (final pressure drop).
It's uncomfortable and even dangerous to live in a house where the air either makes you sick or aggravates allergies and asthma. But with a few simple steps you may be able to cut down on the irritants in your home—and breathe a sigh of relief.